What Color To Paint A Kitchen

If you lot've noticed the cost of new appliances, countertops, and cabinets, it'south no surprise that renovating a kitchen is one of the most expensive remodeling projects. While few homeowners find ways to heave the look of a dated refrigerator or tired granite, transforming a kitchen past freshening the cabinets that brand up most of the room'southward visual space is entirely within reach. But at that place's more to the task than buying a gallon of your favorite color.

Read our step-by-stride instructions and scout expert painter Mauro Henrique demonstrate how to become the job done right.

How Much Does it Cost to Paint Kitchen Cabinets?

Renovating a kitchen is one of the about expensive remodeling projects that you tin can take on, and replacing the cabinets can account for almost 40 percent of that toll.

Cabinets for a 10-by 12-foot kitchen can easily top $v,000—and your new cabinets may really exist of lower quality than the ones y'all're replacing. On the other hand, a few fresh coats of paint can go a long fashion toward transforming your existing cabinets for a fraction of that price. In fact, the cost of painting should exist no more than about $200, plus a weekend or two of your time.

Should I Paint My Cabinets?

Earlier you head out to the paint store, notwithstanding, examine your cabinets to encounter if they can be resuscitated in the first identify. Even the highest-quality paint job can't revive cheap cabinets that have grown frail with age. Thin veneers peel or delaminate, particleboard cabinet bottoms or shelves sag or pause, and hanging rails come up loose. If these are the issues y'all're dealing with, you'd actually be ameliorate off replacing your kitchen cabinets.

Assuming that everything is nevertheless in fine shape and good working lodge, permit'southward examine some of the questions y'all'll need to address before you start repainting your kitchen cabinets.

What Blazon of Paint Practice I Demand for Cabinets?

Oil or latex?

Latex paints have been improving steadily, leading some pros to give up oil-based paints entirely. Considering they dry quickly and clean upwardly with water, latex paints are more user-friendly than oil-based paints. But many pros still favor oil-based topcoats, arguing that they form a harder, more durable paint moving-picture show and level out to a smoother finished surface. Latex paints also take longer (up to three weeks) than oil-based paints to fully cure. In the meantime, they're susceptible to damage.

Bottom line: Either oil or latex will provide a good finish. If you do apply a latex pigment, make certain information technology's a 100 percent acrylic formulation, which offers greater durability and adhesion than vinyl acrylic paints.

Brush or Spray Pigment?

A sprayed-on finish is the smoothest option, but there's a learning bend for doing it properly. You'll also probable need to rent the spray equipment, which drives up your costs, and you'll take to mask off all the areas in the kitchen that could accidentally get sprayed, including countertops, cabinet interiors, and appliances, which is a time-consuming process.

For these reasons, nosotros recommend y'all opt for using high-quality brushes instead. Invest in a practiced, 3- to four-inch-wide square brush, whose straight ends will make short piece of work of big, flat panels, every bit well as an angled brush in the 2½- or 3-inch-broad range, which will help you get pigment into the corners of doors with molding and tin can coat door frames in i pass. Latex paint should be applied with a synthetic bristle brush, which doesn't absorb water; oil-based paint should be applied with a natural-bristle castor.

Can you but paint over cabinets or should yous strip them?

When the existing finish is a clear coat, the all-time course of action is to strip the finish downwards to the blank forest earlier painting. This eliminates a potential adhesion problem between the old finish and the new paint.

But while stripping may be the ideal for purists, it'southward not e'er applied or absolutely necessary. A thorough cleaning followed by low-cal sanding should exist enough to prepare the surface for new paint.

Regular or faux finish?

If you're open up to spicing up your kitchen's look, incorporating a fake finish tin transform its way into shabby chic, rustic, provincial, or mod. Crackling glaze, which is available at paint stores, tin can, with very lilliputian effort, requite your cabinets a weathered wait. But apply the glaze over a dry base coat, brushing in only 1 direction (thick for large cracks, thin for fine cracks), and permit it dry out. Finish with a flat topcoat of the base color brushed on perpendicular to the coat. The pigment will starting time to form cracks as it dries, a process that takes about an hour.

Another rustic style is the distressed look, which doesn't require a special paint. This terminate is fabricated upwards of layered colors and spattered dark pigment. When the paint is dry, to reveal the colors underneath, distress the finish past striking it with a chain and lightly sanding in the spots where the cabinets get the most employ.

Similarly, the antiqued, slowly aged await can be achieved with some paint magic. Simply dip the tip of a paintbrush in a color lighter than the cabinets and dab the backlog onto a textile until the brush is almost dry, and so lightly graze the surface of the detail trim, corners, and seams.

On the other end of the spectrum is a loftier-gloss finish, which will transform your kitchen into a polished, modern space. To shine upwardly your cabinets, paint a high-gloss clear acrylic varnish over your final coat. This technique will add depth to the color and encompass the surface of your kitchen with a glassy sheen.

Steps for Painting Cabinets

ane. Prep the room

A successful paint job lies in diligent prep work, and the commencement few steps are focused on prepping the room and cabinets for painting.

• Get-go by emptying the cabinets, clearing off the counters, and removing whatever freestanding appliances.
• Relocate tables and other article of furniture to another room.
• Tape rosin paper over the countertops and flooring, and, to protect the rest of the business firm from grit and fumes, tape plastic sheeting over the backsplash, windows, stock-still appliances, and interior doorways.
• Mask off the wall around the cabinets.
• Set up a worktable for painting doors, drawers, and shelves.

TIP: Prepare Up a DIY Pigment Station

Brown Bird Design

This makeshift jig provides admission to all sides of a cabinet door to reduce downtime during drying. Here's how to set it up:

• Span a pair of 2x4s at middle level between two ladders.
• Screw eye hooks into ane end of a 2x4, where doors will be painted, and at the other cease, screw hooks into both 2x4s to hang painted doors from.
• Add corresponding hooks to the top edges of upper cabinet doors and the bottoms of lower doors and drawers, where the holes left behind won't be visible.

2. Remove the doors, drawers, and shelves

Gregory Nemec

• Be sure to mark each drawer front end and door with a mark to forestall mixing up the doors. The best place for this mark is behind the hinge location.
• Dorsum out the hinge screws from the cabinet frame and remove the doors.
• Working from left to correct, height to bottom, label each one with a numbered piece of tape. Also, number the edges of cabinet shelves and the bottoms of drawers.
• Set up aside the shelf-hanging hardware.
• At your worktable, remove the pulls and hinges and save what's being reused.
• On the doors, transfer the number from the tape to the exposed forest nether one hinge.
• Comprehend it with fresh tape.

three. Clean all the surfaces

• Clean the cabinet by spraying information technology with a degreaser solution and wiping it downwards with a rag. This removes all the oils and grease that could prevent a perfect stop. If ordinary cleaners aren't effective, consider using a stronger cleaner similar trisodium phosphate (TSP), which is sold at hardware and pigment stores. Simply make sure y'all follow the safety precautions on the container.
• Once all the cabinet pieces are make clean, rinse them thoroughly with water and allow them dry.

4. Prep the boxes

• Open the windows for ventilation and put on rubber gear. Using an abrasive pad dipped in a liquid deglosser, scrub down all of the surfaces.
• Concur a rag underneath to catch drips. Before the deglosser evaporates, quickly wipe away the residue with another clean, deglosser-dampened rag.
• If you're relocating the hardware, fill the old spiral holes with a 2-part polyester forest or autobody filler.
• Information technology sets in most 5 minutes, so mix only small batches. The filler shrinks a fleck, and then overfill the holes slightly.
• Every bit soon as it sets, remove the backlog with a sharp paint scraper. If it hardens completely, sand it smooth.
• Use a cream sanding block to scuff the surfaces of the chiffonier, drawers, and doors. This is a light sanding meant to requite the primer something to adhere to, and so don't sand to the blank wood. Use a tack cloth to remove the sanding dust before moving on.
• Vacuum the cabinets within and out to make sure no bits of dust mar the finish, then rub them down with a tack cloth for extra measure.

5. Prime the cabinet boxes

Kolin Smith

Now it'southward time for the primer. If the cabinets are heavily stained, use a stain-blocking primer, which dries speedily and seals knots and other surface defects that might bleed through the topcoats. In most situations, however, stain-blockers shouldn't be necessary, and an oil-based or 100 percent acrylic latex primer will piece of work just fine.

• Pour some primer into the paint tray and load the roller and brush. Using the castor along the edges and tight spots, and the roller on the large, apartment surfaces, glaze the chiffonier, doors, and drawer fronts with a coat of primer.
• Starting at the elevation of the cabinet, brush on the primer beyond the grain, then "tip-off"—pass the brush lightly over the wet finish in the direction of the grain. Ever tip-off in a single stroke from one end to the other.
• Brand sure to follow the underlying structure of the cabinet or door with the brush. Where a track butts into a stile, for case, paint the track start, overlapping slightly onto the stile, then paint the stile before the overlap dries.
• While you're allowing the primer to dry out, launder your castor and roller sleeve, and pour the excess primer back into the tin earlier washing the paint tray.

six. Sand, caulk, and fill

Kolin Smith

• After the primer is dry, sand the apartment surfaces with 220-dust paper.
• Sand any profiled surfaces with a medium-dust sanding sponge. The wood should terminate up feeling glass-smooth.
• Squeeze a thin bead of latex caulk into any open seams. (The hole in a caulk tube's tip should be no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil.)
• Pull the tip as you go, then smooth the caulk with a damp finger. Fill whatsoever minor dents, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty knife.
• Once the spackle is dry (about hour), sand over again with 220-grit paper, vacuum, and wipe with a tack material.
• With a spray tin of fast-drying oil-based primer, spot-prime the spackle and any spots where the sandpaper has "burned through" the primer.
• Await an hr, so sand the primer lightly with 280-grit newspaper.
• Vacuum all the surfaces, and wipe them with a tack textile.

7. Paint the cabinet boxes

Kolin Smith

You're finally prepare to pigment! If you're using roughly the same shade as the existing color, 2 coats ought to do the job. You might even get away with 1. Painting over a dark finish with a light color is tougher and could crave three coats. Break out a new brush for each coat.

• Pour some trim and chiffonier enamel paint into the paint tray and load the brush and roller with pigment. Use the castor to cut in forth the edges, push the pigment into the corners, and go out out roller strokes. Use the roller to employ enamel paint to the large flat surface where possible.
• For the cabinet interior, apply the paint with a shine-surface mini roller, which leaves a slightly bumpy, orange-pare texture.
• Cover the brush and roller with plastic bags to prevent them from hardening while you lot await for the first coat to dry.
• Betwixt coats, sand the surfaces lightly, making sure to clean upwardly the debris later.
• Utilise a second coat to the chiffonier. This coat should provide a perfect, consistent end without whatsoever thin or light areas where wood might show through.

eight. Prep, prime, and pigment the doors, drawers, and shelves

The strategy for prepping, priming, and painting doors, drawers, and shelves is the same as for the cabinets, except that all the work is done on a tabular array to reduce the take a chance of drips, runs, and sags.

• When painting paneled doors, start with the area around the panel.
• Then, do the main field of the panel, and terminate with the stiles and rails around the edges.
• As you keep, wipe upward any pigment that ends upwardly on adjacent dry surfaces to eliminate the chance of lap marks.

Tip: To speed upward the drying time for doors, you can twist two screw hooks into holes drilled in an camouflaged door border (the lower edge for bottom cabinets, the upper edge for top cabinets). Paint the door'south outside face and let information technology dry for an 60 minutes while resting flat, so tilt the door up onto its hooks and put a drywall screw into an existing hardware hole. Concord the tilted door up past the spiral and paint the door's dorsum side.

• When you're washed painting, choice up the door by the screw and one hook and hang both hooks on a sturdy apparel hanger.
• Suspend the door from a shower mantle rod or dress rod until it dries.

9. Put back all the pieces

Kolin Smith

• In one case the second coat dries, reattach the door and drawer fronts. Enjoy the fact that you've given your kitchen cabinets a fresh new look without investing a lot of time or money.
• Remove the tape over each door's number, install the hinges and knob, and hang them in their original opening.
• Replace the drawer pulls (or add new ones) and reinstall each drawer.

Shopping list

• Degreaser spray
• Latex primer
• Water-based trim and cabinet enamel paint
• Roller sleeves

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/kitchens/21097083/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets

Posted by: frasierpree1974.blogspot.com

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